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Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Kilkenny, Ireland

**For more information on our entire Ireland trip and our itinerary, click here**

I'm very sorry to post parts of our trip out of sequence, but this is due to a very unfortunately large photo loss.  I am piecing things together as I can!  And yes, I have now have more efficient ways of storing photos!

After leaving our new Irish friends in Cork, we set off on a day of exploration through County Tipperary.  Our first stop was the town of Cahir and the beautiful Cahir Castle.  I would say without hesitation that this was our favorite castle visit in Ireland - it is one of the largest in the county and one of the best preserved.  Cahir Castle was built in 1142 by Conor OBrien, Prince of Thomond, on an island in the river Suir.  It was attacked and changed hands many times, but happily much of it is present for us to see today.  There is a small charge per person to enter (currently 4 Euros for adults) but it's worth it.  The castle is open daily but hours vary seasonally.  There are guided tours but we chose to explore on our own.  This is a must see if you are anywhere in the area.






This dungeon freaked us out!








Our day was a bit overcast, but it honestly just made for a very cool vibe and gave the pictures a misty, mystical feel.

Hotel in the city of Cahir

Following our visit to Cahir, we got back in the rental car and headed north to Cashel.  If you are in Co Tipperary and have any inkling to learn about Irish history, you will absolutely eat this place up. It is such an incredible summation of thousands of years of Irish history - construction supposedly began during the Ice Age, it was the seat of Munster kings from the time of the 5th century, and it became the center of Christian reform in 1101.  The complex encompasses many different chapels and towers that were built and added on to over time.  I would absolutely recommend the guided tour of the Rock - there is just so much history and culture to absorb here and you would miss a lot with a self guided exploration.

Start your journey in the city of Cashel, where you can visit Dominics Abbey, which was founded in 1243 by the Archbishop of Cashel David McKelly.



You can then follow the Bishop's Walk which starts outside the Cashel Palace Hotel on Main Street - it's about a 10 minute walk up to the Rock.  And you will get to see it in all its glory...




Entrance to St. Patrick's Cathedral

St. Patrick's Cross in the foreground

St. Patrick's Cross, said to be resting on the original coronation stone of the Munster kings.  An honor to St. Patrick, who came to Cashel in 450 AD, bringing Christianity.

Hall of the Vicors Choral, built in the 15th century. The church selected the 8 best singers they could find in the surrounding areas and had them train here.

This was the "credit card" the singers used to have their expenses paid.  Apparently, these were connected to some of the earliest incidences of credit card fraud!

Doorway to St. Patrick's Cathedral

The cathedral was built in 1169 and dedicated on March 17 - St. Patricks Day.



Tombs in South Transcept


North Transcept of St. Patricks Cathedral



There were 5 religious buildings surrounding the Rock.  Upon looking at this land, St. Patrick is said to have called it the land of milk and honey.


Cormacs Chapel, built in 1127 by Cormac McCarthy, King of Desmond and Bishop of Cashel.  It is made entirely of red sandstone, which has not weathered well.

Entry archway of Cormacs Chapel - the helmet on the centaur and bow and arrow indicate European influences.


Leaving the Rock

Adorable houses in Cashel

Kilkenny was our next stop and our resting place for the evening.  We stayed at the Fanad House just outside of downtown, an adorable little 12 room B&B.  Rooms were clean and comfortable, and it is about a 5-10 minute walk into downtown.  We chose to take this option, as we knew we'd be out in the pubs, regretting it later only when it poured rain.


We ate dinner at the historic Hibernian Hotel, a former bank, where we found good food for a reasonable price.


And then we set out on a night of pub hopping!  Kilkenny reminded me a lot of an American college town, with lots of young people and a vibrant pub scene.  They have a large arts festival for two weeks in August which I imagine would be a lot of fun.  We started at the Pumphouse, a very young and lively pub...


...hit John Cleere's, a good place for traditional music...


...and wound up our night at Kyteler's Inn.  This pub has a very interesting interior and an even more interesting back story - Alice Le Kyteler, the original owner, is said to have poisoned four husbands before she was accused of witchcraft and fled to England.


The next morning, we explored a little more before heading out of the city.

St. Candice, who established a large monastic school in Kilkenny in the 6th century.

The Black Abbey, a 13th century church which is one of the few medieval churches still owned by the Roman Catholic Church.  The stained glass inside was breathtaking, but pictures weren't allowed as services were in progress.


Kilkenny Castle was built in 1172 by the Butler family, one of the most powerful clans in Irish history.  It's a mix of Gothic and Victorian styles, and it would certainly interest any architectural buffs.  I think it's worth walking through - it's beautiful inside and encompasses many years of Kilkenny history.




Overall, I'd say that both Cahir and Cashel were well worth our time and added significantly to our Ireland trip and our understanding of Irish history.  I enjoyed Kilkenny and it was a good stopping point, but I don't think I'd go very far out of my way just to experience it in itself.